Kwaheri

The collar of clouds that visits the rim of the crater has joined us again this morning. Like a thick white cotton ball it sits on our balcony, obstructing our precious vista below. We are pleased with our past 2 days of game viewing and with bittersweet emotions we bid farewell to our accommodation and the beautiful staff and surroundings of the Serena. We look forward to returning once again. 

As descend from the hills of the Rift Valley around Manyara the road opens up to the wide expanse of the grazing areas populated by Maasai villages and termite mounds. 

As we drive along the long ribbon of bitumen cutting through the bush and scrub, we pass groups of herdsmen and their skinny cows and goats. The landscape is dotted with the familiar domed huts of the Maasai, each arranged within a thick compound wall of bushes, branches and sticks. It is hard to tell if they intend to keep animals in or out. 

The grazing animals nearby foraging for food among the rocks and dry dusty ground. What grass they find is not a lush green but a straw yellow grass which seems lifeless and dry. 

With some time until we reach the airstrip of Arusha, Aasha climbs up to my lap for a cuddle and a nap. I think the transition back to mandatory car seat traveling will be challenging. 

Now at this busy hub populated with many turboprop Cessna's and a few large regionals, it's time to bid farewell to Adam and Zubeda and set off for Zanzibar and the beachside Serena Hotel. 

Into the crater

Today as we descend into the crater of Ngorongoro we see the first light and crimson of sun rise is reflecting on the shores of the soda lake. Other waterholes are like droplets of gold in the distance and a collar of clouds hugs the crater rim like a fur edge of a winter coat. 

Once down on the crater floor we are on the lookout for the big cats. As the sun peeks over the edge of the eastern rim we are bathed in warm light and the magic hour begins. We stop the truck in time for a sunrise photo opportunity and are about to drive on when I look behind me to see the most beautiful view of Flamingo on the shores of the soda lake with Thompson Gazelle in the foreground, I quickly grab Alison's camera a capture the moment. I love this place, and its moments like these that affirm where my heart has a home. 

 

Now we drive on and see grazing zebra and wildebeest, and a small rise of earth, perched atop the rise are to young male lions. Basking in the warm glow of the sun and scanning the plains below them. Today has started well. After taking some time to admire these beautiful boys we move on. Not far down the road is yet another gem spotting. The bush breakfast table was set and 4 Lions were dining on a fresh wildebeest kill. As gruesome as watching an animal get torn apart is, it is spectacular to see this in motion. Sitting around the feast waiting to be invited in were 3 jackals, every so often they would approach, but quickly return to their waiting pose as not to become second course. At a further distance out were 4 hyena, they too waiting for their chance for a meal. Unlike the jackal they stayed back and marked time. 

 

Knowing that this dining experience would continue for a while we depart in search of the rhino known to be in the area. Their location not precise but a general idea of where to find them is given. So we drive on, Adam finds an elevated spot to look out across the grass and finds 2 rhino grazing in the distance. Even with the help of good binoculars it is difficult to clearly see them and I rely on his experience of what it is that we are seeing.

Electing to have breakfast now we set off for the hippo pool. Bush breakfast with hot coffee warms us, but the cold winds still bites at our ears. In the water ahead a hippo has the right idea - keep your head below water and just stick your nostrils out for a breath of air every so often.

With breakfast complete we set off again for some more viewing. Coming across some hyena running we follow for they look like they are on the trail of something smelly! Their gait is soon slowed as they reach a waterhole with a male lion on the perimeter and the pride just beyond. No one is feasting just yet and these guys don't want to become lunch! It seems our morning is complete as we now slowly drive on further to exit the park, looking out as we go. 

Climbing the winding road out we see across the ravine a herd of 15 elephants on an adjacent hill. With 3 young close to their mothers it is magnificent to see these gentle giants.

We are now out and driving back to our lodge, Adam points out the cohabitation of some zebra and the cows of a Maasai tribe grazing together. With food leftovers from breakfast I suggest we offer it to the Maasai boy's. Calling them over, they come running. We unwrap the food and pass it out, with pockets bulging and smiles from ear to ear the elder boy waves at me and mimics my thumbs up and ok. I'm so glad we did this, as I know they will share among the others , but more importantly, we made a contribution back to the local community.

 

Once back at the lodge it's time to join Katrina on the balcony and enjoy a chat with a beautiful view across the crater, what a great day. 

Ngorongoro never disappoints

There are many magical places and experiences in this world but one that really stands out for me is the anticipation I feel as I descend into Ngorongoro crater just before sunrise. On this particular occasion the mist is obscuring the view - in a way extending the sense of anticipation. The descent is long and windy but Adam guides our vehicle with ease. As we stop to open the top of the truck the cold seeps in - wow there definitely is a winter here.

As we drive on I am struck by the beauty of this place - it doesn't matter how many times I come here - it is breathtaking.

The herd of zebra and wildebeest is the largest I have seen here. They are walking in single file - much like they would as they migrate in the Serengeti.

On this particular morning we see three groups of lions lazing after having had a successful night of hunting! They sleepily lookup from their resting point from time to time!

On our way to the picnic spot for breakfast one of three prides of lions are finishing the spoils of a successful hunt - they have an audience of about 6 jackals and many hyena. As the lions wander off for a drink the jackals take their turn. The edgy hyena still lurking in the distance.

The lush green of the picnic spot hides elephants and hippos. It is magical knowing that they are so close as we eat our breakfast. Adam sets up an amazing spread for us - complete with table and chairs. Very decadent and luxurious experience given our location.

As we traverse the many sub zones of this amazing natural phenomenon I am amazed by its diversity and the different wildlife that live in each location.

Finally when we are about to leave we come across the elusive kifaru (rhino) feeding in the grass!! All in all a successful morning - totally worth braving the cold winds!!

Arusha to Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro

Driving through Arusha on our way to Lake Manyara I am struck by the colours of Africa. In the stunning reds of the Maasai blankets, the bright colours and patterns of the Kanga. Against the backdrop of grey ramshackle township the colours are striking. For me the perfect way to describe the beauty of Tanzania which is more than just wildlife. "It is the people".

On a more disturbing note though, the bright Coke Cola and Pepsi signs you see  everywhere are an example of where multinationals attempt to ingraine their products into the daily existence of people who in many cases can't afford the basics for their kids. Coke and Pepsi have done this under the guise of providing shop name signage. But this normalisation of brand and product has long term detrimental effects, I say this because I cannot see the relevance of "Betty Nail shop" to the sale of a soft drink.

As we drive through the rural grazing plains we see the Maasi herdsmen an pad their flocks of goats or herds of cattle. Every so often we see some young boys dressed in black robes. These are the Maasi boys who are undertaking their initiation period. This requires them to live apart from the village and live off the land. Once they have undergone their circumcision ceremony they have their faces painted white. 

Lake Manyara was peaceful and filled wth plenty of bird life. At one stage there was a troop of over 70 Olive Baboons walking along the shores of the lake. It was an amazing sight to see. Talking of the Olive Baboon, while waiting at the gate to Ngorongoro National park there is a resident troup who live off the gratuity of unsuspecting visitors, and will take any advantage to enter a vehicle in search of food. Well today while our guide was inside arranging our entry fees, we were the centre of attention for some of the troop who climbed over our vehicle, sat on the bonnet and attempted to snatch some Pringles chips through a slightly open window. While this attempt was unfruitful, the screams from Kabebe were enough to scare the poor beast to death. Having seen first hand how vicious they can turn if threatened we had decided to stay in our vehicle, but other tourist were oblivious to this and pushed the space boundary too far for our comfort in their attempts for the right photo. Luckily no one was injured. Our girls survived the up close and personal viewing of male baboon genitalia as they preened themselves on the bonnet so I think they will live to scream another day. 

Lake Duluti Tanzania

An early flight from Nairobi got us to Kilimanjaro International Airport situated between Mt Meru on the  west and Mt Kilimanjaro on the east and 40km away from the town of Arusha. 

Today's flight had perfect conditions for viewing Mt Kilimanjaro and the pilot of our Kenya Airways flight took delight in showing this magnificent sight to us. Picking a course that would circle the mountain he eased our Embarer 190 jet firstly to allow the right side passengers a beautiful view of the mountain top, then the left side. Our flight attendants commented that this was a rare opportunity. I was now thankful that I was seated towards the rear and clear of the wing to get some memorable photos. 

 

Arriving in Kilimanjaro airport we were met by Adam and his team from Proud African Safaris and taken to our accommodation at Lake Duluti. Adam had pre arranged for breakfast at the lodge. So after a very early rise and rush to the airport a beautifully cooked omelette and fresh plantation grown coffee was the perfect pick me up. After breakfast we settled into our room. The set out and attention to detail makes this a great place for the next few days. 

  

The freestanding lodge verandas open onto plantings of coffee bushes. This vista completes the tranquility and romance of this home away from home. 

 

Traveling with kids

Let's say that traveling with kids isn't always smooth sailing. The alarm was set for 3:45am however our Littke Miss 2 decided that 3:30 was a better time to wake up and demand Duggee her favourite tv show. All attempts to convince her otherwise failed so we had to give in to the Temper Dragon. Unfortunately the tantrums didn't finish there. Miss Grumpy continued until we were airborne and again on arrival in Kilimanjaro international airport. 

We were sad to say goodbye to the Serena and Kenya, however we are determined to be back sooner than we were this time. 

FYI fellow travelers Kenyatta Jomo airport in Nairobi has 4 security checks prior boarding - you can understand why given the history but with bags and kids it is challenging. The first check is at the airport perimeter with all car passengers to go through a security check while the car is checked, then only passengers are permitted in the terminal and passports are checked and all bags are scanned. The next is the fingerprint and passport scanning. Finally there is the mandatory LAGS check, and phew we are ready for our flight and a much needed coffee call made to Java House. (Side note: Kenya can grow the most amazing and yummy coffee, but someone seriously needs to instruct the Java House crew to make it. One would think that a flagship store would know how to brew a good coffee. This trip has been a chronicle of bad and even worse coffee. So far Hungry- So so, France bad, Italy bad and Kenya mixed. The Serena has a barista girl that does a fantastic coffee and even cafe art. )



 

Local Experiences

No visit to Nairobi is complete without a visit to the Karen Blixen Giraffe centre and the David Sheldrick Elephant orphanage.

First stop to today was the Giraffes. The long slimy blue/grey tongues of the giraffe is something that takes getting used to. Feeding them food pellets one at a time is an exercise in trust. They are just so close and with such a big head right in front of you. The dominant male giraffe was called Ed, some of the females that came up for a feed were Daisy, Mtata, and Betty.

Next stop was the elephant orphanage. We arrived in time to have a picture with a local Maasai man (remember that a photo request always comes with a tip payment) and see the tembo march of 13 baby elephants. They were aged from 5 to 28 months. Each named after the area where they were discovered or the way they were found. Some from Tsavo, Amboseli, others from Mt Kenya and the Maasai areas. Apart from being orphaned through poaching activity, another common abandonment was from falling into wells. Adopting an elephant costs as little as $1 per week. This can be a rewarding experience if you live nearby to see the elephant growing up.

A trip to David Sheldrick is never dull with cheeky baby elephants rolling in the mud, pushing their friends or playing with water in their trunks. We had a timely reminder though that these are indeed wild animals as they playfully escaped from the roped off area and managed to scare a group of tiny local kindergarten kids - thankfully no one was injured as the playful elephants thought that the kids offered much more fun than following their keepers!!

A quick stop on our way back to the hotel at a local supermarket has secured us a small supply of the fabulous Kenyan coffee we love so much!! Will have to ration it significantly as we are traveling further we couldn't stock up as much as we would like.

As always we have enjoyed an afternoon by the pool to wrap up another wonderful day on safari in such a beautiful country.

Sunday Day trip to Lake Naivasha

Sunday Day trip to Lake Naivasha.
As we climb out of Nairobi towards Mt Logonot we pass the Sunday Church traffic, men in suits with ties carrying well dressed children, and women in starched, immaculate white dresses. It is an interesting counterpoint to the surrounding environment of plastic rubbish, red dirt and smoke haze from piles of burning trash. Further on we reach the summit and are met with the roadside view of the Rift Valley. A valley that stretches from Jordan to Mozambique.  

The Lake Navasha country club dates back to the 1930's, we took a boat ride on the lake. The boat was a little worse for wear but actually despite its ramshackle appearance it completely fit the bill.

Out on the lake were fantastic numbers of Cormorant, and Egret, Some Fish Eagle, and Pied Kingfisher, Squarker Herron and Hippopotamus. The ride was pleasant and a nice way to see the wilderness.

The Hippopotamus was not as common as last time we were out on the water in 2013 however it was great to see a couple of them.

After our water tour we relaxed in the garden and enjoyed some lunch and a cool glass of Stoney Tangawizi.

Driving back was saw a small number of Zebra, this made Zawadi excited as they are her favourites.

As we entered the outskirts of Nairobi the prevalence of the Mutatu or regional buses increases. It is funny to see the names of the bus from The Shepherd, to Atomic and Chronics. All of these burgeoning with passengers back from the weekend visits to family out of town.

A fun day was had by all!!

Nairobi is a Maasai word for Cool fresh water.
Naivasha is a Maasai word for Hot Water.
Nairok is the gate to the Maasai Mara.
Logonot town is the start of the Mt Logonot National Park.